Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Mining in Goa - Boon or Bane?

Very few of us are aware that Goa is one of the largest exporters of iron ore in India, mostly to the new pig iron plants that have been setup in China. This has resulted in a huge economic boom for the state, but at a very dear cost to its fragile ecology and residents.

Goa is well known on the tourist circuit, and hardly a handful of the tourists ever wander the hinterlands of the region. Forget about tourists, I wonder how many Goans have actually witnessed the scars that have been caused by the open pit mines affecting the 5 talukas of Sanguem, Sattari, Bicholim, Ponda and Quepem. As per records, nearly 70 legitimate mines operate in these areas, and scores of other mines are operated illegally. Most of the mines are operated without giving a damn to the existing environmental norms. An estimated 60,000 tonnes of mud, silt and sludge goes into the 2 main rivers of Goa. How long will it take for these rivers to die out?

The government itself is flouting laws by giving new mining leases in forest areas, including inside wildlife sanctuaries. In 2003, the supreme court ordered closure of mining in these wildlife sanctuaries. The fallout of this was that, while we were supposed to have new wildlife sanctuaries in the state, it was not to be so that these illegal mines can carry out their nefarious work. Forests and hills have been cut down to make way for mines in places like Morpirla. Historical sites have been removed from archeological registers for the same reason.

People who are in favour of mining talk about the economic implications of closing of mines. A visitor to Sanvordem (the place I belong to) will see a staggering number of trucks parked outside most of the homes. Also, many people from these areas are employed in the mines. But the same visitor can also not ignore the ecological implications that are there for everyone to see. The roads are dusty, the leaves are coated with a reddish hue, and the air is heavily polluted with the ore particles. No wonder, the number of lung-related diseases is very high and respiratory problems are on the rise. Nearly 5000 trucks ply on the roads at break neck speed leading to increased noise pollution. We have also witnessed related law and order problems. Recently, some trucks were damaged by a few envious individuals who had bought new trucks but couldn't get these hired in the mines. Some RTO officials were roughed up for giving challaan for overspeeding. I wonder what we will get to see next.

Villages near the mines have been worst affected. The traditional means of livelihood have been destroyed. The mine sludge is poured into their fields overnight destroying their crops. The water level has decreased alarmingly, and the wells dry up by February...something which we never experienced in the whole of Goa a few years before. With no agriculture, these folks are left with nothing else but to take temporary jobs elsewhere. The once proud people have been reduced to the level of slaves. And if they ever try to protest, the state machinery in cohorts with the mine lobby, brutally suppress them, not even leaving out old folk and children. Why don't we hear of all this in the press? How will you when most of the newspapers in the state are owned by these same oppressors!!!

My granny's house in right next to the Zuari river in Sanvordem. Loading of ore on barges takes place nearby. My grandfather used to tell me tales of how they used to go out in boats and have fun in these waters. About how the place was covered with trees and shrubs. About how they used to fish in the river. About how the nearby woods were so thickly forested that there were tigers about. And how, a long time ago, tigers used to roam in the markets of Sanvordem at night once in a while. I envy him for the type of life he experienced and could proudly tell us all these tales. And I feel sorry for myself that I will not be able to tell similar stories to my grandchildren!!!

Friday, March 6, 2009

Being 'Nuste'lgic!!!

There is a famous poem in Konkani by the son of the soil Bakibab Borkar, where he implores the God of Death (Yamraaj) not to collect his soul that particular day as there is fish curry for dinner!!! People have asked me what is so special about this poem; some have even modifed it replacing the fish curry with dal makhani, tandoori chicken, and also curd rice, depending on their popular food. Well, poetry should never be taken for literally, specially it's transliteration should not be taken at face value. What certain things mean to certain communities cannot be understood by others; how can Goans know what a llama means to a Quecha? Now don't ask me what is a llama (well, certainly not related to the Dalai Lama) and who (or what) is a Quecha!!!

Fish to a Goan is much more than manna, even though they will be having fish almost daily as part of their diet. I usually use this as a means to identify an authentic Goan from pseudo-Goans. Neo-Goans will always go for 'Visvonn' or 'Paaplet' while a niz-Goenkar will consider himself lucky if he gets to have 'Karli' or 'Kaalva' for dinner that day.  No, don't take me wrong...I do not believe in regionalism; but I consider a person's origins very important for his/her identity. But let's not get into that as of now.

An environmentalist friend of mine once remarked to me that in this world of overconsumption and the subsequent decline in species numbers,  the only place he can think of where people can give their life to conserve fish, is Goa...not because of economic reasons, but because if all the fish in this world were to disappear, the Goan psyche will be disturbed, and the Goan identity, culture and ultimately the Goans themselves will go extinct. The Goans are born environmentalists, they will always speak about the ill-effects of tourism and how the hotel industry is creating problems for Goa and Goans...but dig deeper into this and you will find the real reasons for such thoughts...the best and freshest fish is always picked by the hotels and Goans have to do with what is left...which niz-Goan can bear such heresy!!!

My migration to Bangalore has resulted in a culture shock to me as far as fish is concerned. What I used to know as 'Muddoshi' now has a new name 'Kaane'. I was very happy with my 'Visvonn', but now I need to differentiate between seer fish and kingfish, and also to know which of these is 'Anjal'. In Goa, I could believe my nustekaar for the freshness of what I would be buying from him, but now I have to further my skills to check on the produce (like the puffiness of the body, colour of the gills, etc.). Back home in Goa, I used to get nice thin slices of Visvonn without even asking the fishmonger; but here inspite of imploring the vendor, what I get is like a steak slice...and in this case, more is simply not merrier. At one restaurant in Marathalli which advertised itself as a specialist in fish, when me and my friend asked the waiter as to what fish they had that day, we were told that they had boneless fish!!! Surely, there cannot be anyone more specialising in fish culinary than them!!!

Goans love their fish wholeheartedly...they may grudge the rising prices of seafood, but that will not stop them from buying their share of 'Postaam'. And fish for them is not limited to what the whole world thinks of as fish. Anything that belongs to the waters, and is edible (except of course, seaweed) is 'nuste'. You ask a Goan what fish he/she bought today, and you will never get an answer that there was no fish, they could only buy prawns and crabs; Goans dont believe in discrimination - everything has been dutifully given a place in the venerated fish pantheon!!! And that should be the reason why 'Nusteshwar' has always been so graceful to his real bhakts!!!